The History of the Rugby Shirt

Few pieces of clothing can look equally at home in a muddy scrum, on a university campus and beneath a tailored jacket. The rugby shirt somehow manages it. With its bold stripes, sturdy collar and considerable fabric, it has the reassuring feel of a garment designed to survive things which, of course, it was. 

Long before designers embraced it as a menswear classic, the rugby shirt was practical sporting equipment. Its journey from the playing fields of Victorian England to everyday wardrobes is a story of school tradition, innovation and some unexpected adventurous. 

The history of the rugby shirt begins with the history of rugby itself. According to the sport’s most famous origin story, Rugby School pupil William Webb Ellis picked up the ball during a football match in 1823 and ran with it. Whether that moment happened exactly as later generations described it is still debated. Even World Rugby calls it a legend. What is certain is that pupils at Rugby School played an important role in shaping the game, producing its first written rules in 1845. 

At first, players wore whatever was available. Early team outfits often consisted of woollen sweaters or jerseys worn with long trousers. Wool was one of the best performance materials available in the 19th century. Wool not only offers warmth, absorbs moisture , but also is relatively durable. Unfortunately, it also becomes heavy when wet and presuming, wasn’t pleasant during a tough, physical match. As rugby became more organised, the clothing became more specialised. Heavy knitted cotton gradually emerged as a practical alternative. It was breathable, hard wearing and I guess you could say, capable of withholding to grabbing, pulling and repeated contact. This tough cotton jersey formed the basis of what most of us now picture when someone says, ‘rugby shirt.’ 

Almost every feature of the traditional rugby shirt had a practical purpose. The heavyweight cotton and loose fit allowed players to move freely while withstanding plenty of tackling. The collar, however, was tougher than the collar of a polo shirt, and the rubber buttons were less likely to break or injure a player during a tackle. Long sleeves offered warmth and protection, and bold stripes made teams easier to identify on a messy crowded mud fest of a field. 

Although rugby and polo shirts may look similar, the rugby shirt is generally heavier, roomier and tougher. A polo shirt aims for lightness and sophistication; a rugby shirt is built to take a beating. 

During the 20th century, the rugby shirt began appearing beyond the pitch. It became especially popular on British and North American university campuses, where team colours and its relaxed shape fitted naturally into the uni style. 

By the 1960s and 1970s, it had become part of the preppy wardrobe, worn alongside chinos, loafers and sports jackets. Fashion brands soon introduced their own versions, adding oversized stripes, embroidered crests and new colour combinations. The shirt offered an appealing mix or I guess you’d say middle ground, smarter than a sweatshirt, but more relaxed than a button down. 

The rugby shirt also found an unexpected audience in the climbing community. During a trip to Scotland in 1970, climber and Patagonia founder Yvon Chouinard bought a regulation rugby shirt. Its thick fabric could withstand abrasive rock, whilst the collar helped protected his neck from climbing equipment. He began bringing shirts back for fellow climbers, and the style became part of Patagonia’s early clothing history. Who knew a garment designed to survive tackles, also was equally useful for climbing! 

Swiftly moving on, professional rugby jerseys have since moved away from heavyweight cotton. Modern versions are usually made from lightweight synthetic fabrics that stretch, dry quickly and resist tearing. They also fit much closer to the body, making it harder for opponents to grab the fabric. Traditional collars have become smaller or some disappeared, while printed graphics have replaced many sewn on details. 

As a result, the modern performance jersey and the classic casual rugby shirt are now quite different. One continues to change with sports technology and the other preserves the stripes, strong fabric and contrasting collar of the original. 

The question Is though, why does it still work? The rugby shirt has lasted because it sits comfortably between smart and casual. The collar provides structure, while its knitted body keeps it easy to wear. It also looks good with jeans, chinos or even beneath a jacket and it usually improves with age because after a rugby shirt has lived many lives, signs of wear feel appropriate rather than untidy because if you think about it… the rugby shirt was never designed to treasurable. 

Born on the playing fields of Victorian England, then adopted by students, climbers and designers, the rugby shirt has travelled incredibly far without losing its identity. After nearly two centuries, it remains colourful, practical and ready for a tackle, preferably followed by a pint. 

– Megan McNally